Skincare Albany - Skin Rejuvenation Upstate New York

Serving Albany, Saratoga Springs, Schenectady, Capital District and Troy, New York

“Beauty in a Bottle”
A Critical Look at Skincare Products

There is not a day that goes by when we are not bombarded with advertisements for some form of skincare product or another. We can’t help but be drawn in to these slick promotions offering a glimmer of our lost youth when our skin glowed and wrinkles were the furthest thing on our minds. Wouldn’t it be nice if in fact beauty could be found in a bottle; however, the solution is not so straight forward. The cosmetic industry has coined the term cosmeceuticals to denote this new class of appearance enhancing products which are intended to be more than mere makeup but less than true drugs. Carefully crafted phrases such as “reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles” imply efficacy, yet at the same time, qualify the effect in essence to render all claims meaningless. In this confusing climate, what then should the consumer do in order to get the best value for his/her money? Perhaps, insight into our process of evaluating and recommending products may be of some help in informing your future selections.

Avoid impulse buying. If the product is more than a passing fad, it will stand the test of time. Do your research. That starts with a valid scientific explanation for how the product is supposed to achieve its intended effect. With a little effort, this information can be found on the internet and in books. Next, look for real clinical data. That means objective testing of a product by independent investigators who do not have financial interests at stake. This is a far cry from testimonials as seen on TV which are no more fact than fiction. In the final analysis, there are very few products that have achieved this degree of validation. Typically, a company will do only that which is necessary to get a product to market. Too much testing can lead to undesirable conclusions such as nonsustainable results or even reclassification of a substance as a drug which could be disadvantageous as it engenders far greater regulation. Finally, when the data is shaky, but the product seems promising, we will do our own limited in-house study, before recommending it to our clients.

The number one recommendation for consumers is retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is a prescription based drug, but the parent compound Retinol or vitamin A is available in cosmeceuticals. Another derivative or retinol is retinaldehyde, which is the most immediate precursor to retinoic acid and appears to have very similar age retarding properties with less irritating side effects. Alpha hydroxyl acids, glycolic acid in particular, are the oldest and most well established substances used for skin rejuvenation. This naturally occurring acid is a mild exfoliant, as well as stimulant for collagen replenishment. The concentration of the acid should be at least 10%, and equally important, the pH of the product which should be low (below 3) as it is the acid form of the molecule which is biologically active. Finally, one needs to consider a host of antioxidants such as vitamin C and E. Antioxidants in the skin are like the body’s own missile defense system, protecting cells from oxidative stress brought on by ultraviolet like exposure. Of the antioxidants, vitamin C, ascorbic acid, has been the most extensively studied. It appears to help protect against sunburn and reduce wrinkles perhaps by stimulating more collagen production. Keep in mind, that the only active form of vitamin C is L-ascorbic acid, a highly unstable molecule which turns an unattractive brown color when exposed to sunlight. Most cosmetics contain stabilized forms of vitamin C called esters which are convenient for packaging but can not claim the same biologic activity in their native state. There is a new antioxidant on the market called idebenone which appears to be more potent than vitamin C or E.

By reading labels carefully, it is possible to obtain many of these active ingredients in over-the-counter products. They also can be acquired from medical skincare professionals who have exclusive distribution rights to certain brands and products.

Arthur N. Falk, MD
Medical Director: The Center for Facial Plastic Surgery & Aesthetic Skin Care
Diplomate of the American Board of Facial Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery

If you want to learn more about what The Center for Facial Plastic Surgery and Laser Skin Care of North Eastern New York can offer you, please take a look at our website and contact our plastic surgery center today to schedule a consultation.